First Mother, Castle Peak, Observation, and Echo (4 out of 7 not bad considering the weather.)
The Plan was to climb First mother, Fay and
Castle on Friday. Backpack up to spray and then climb Hessong Rock and
Pleasant. Camp in spray and climb Observation Rock and Echo rock.
Plans didn't go exactly like that but I had an amazing time with some
great people.
I guess 4 summits out of the 7 is ok.
Met Jeff at Mowich lake Th and started up the climbers trial to
knapsack pass. There is a climbers route a few hundred feet form
Knapsack that leads to Fay. We went up to knapsack and knew we went by
it. Funny thing is I saw the trail
. At that point we where so close to First Mother and didn't want to
drop back down so we decided to head up First mother 6395'. Nice peak.
We sat up there for an hour or so. The mountain was out more than in.
the storm was rolling in and gave some relief from the sun. We decided
we could add Fay to the Hessong Rock and Pleasant loop for Sat so we
decided to Take the ridge running NW to Castle. We pick our own
bushwack route across the ridge. We would pick up the path and goat
trials every once in a while. We took a wrong turn around this unnamed
peak and ended up summiting it and getting cliffed out. We climbed back
down and found the way around it and summited Castle peak 6110'. After
a quick break we headed down. The weather system was settling in for
the night.
Got back to camp and set up the condo at Mowich camp ground. Denise showed up around 10:00 pm.
Sat morning we woke up to Rain and cloud ceiling below the lake. We
decided to wait it out and see when it will lift enough to head up. I
knew the system wasn't going to last long so we decided to Wait til the
storm cleared to head up to spray park for the climb the next day. We
can do the other three peeks another time.
So we had some time to waist
. We hung out in the condo and enjoyed each others company and drove
down to Wilkenson for lunch. By the time we got back from lunch the
weather was lifting. Packed up camp and the backpacks and headed up to
Spray Park. What a great fun day.
WARNING skeeters are thick in the meadows! The meadows are in full
boom. By the time we got to spray not a cloud in the sky. The moon was
out and just and incredible view of rainier and the sunset from camp.
Sunrise was just as good.
Jeff and and I started the approach to Observation. Snow was in
great shape. We wore our crampons but it wasn't necessary after a
while. We kept them on though cause they where not balling up yet. The
last push to the summit ridge we chose a different route than others
had taken. We
ended up on a steep snow and ice it was fun climbing up that. There was
troughs of ice weaved all throughout the glacier and you can avoid most
but there was many times I was glad to have my crampons.
Observation 8364' is a fun scramble. Signed the summit register
and saw Don's name in there. Several pairs of climbers summiting after
us. We sat at the top for an hour and could have hung out for many
more.
Meanwhile:Denise was
doing her own climb fallowing our route up the snow fields to about
7500' and enjoyed rambling around the area. We stayed in touch with
each other through two ways.
Had to get to Echo.
The decent was mainly snow field. we descended the route that the other
climbers had been using to get up observation. We dropped our pack and
headed up Echo. We brought the helmets for echo but we used them the
entire climb most of the because most all routes where littered with
rock.
The summit of echo 7870' is tiny high and exposed . but a fun scramble.
Decent was fun through the old moraines and Flett Glacier. We got back to camp and packed up and headed out.
It was one of the most enjoyable weekends I have had.
Rabid Winds of Dog
As I drive east down the gorge my truck is being
shoved and pushed by some very violent winds. I think to myself hmmm
maybe I should change plans. I know that Dog mountain gets some pretty
heavy winds. I really have my heart set on dog for the day. I have
hiked this mountain several times but never in the winter yet. So I
decide I am going for it.
Dog mountain
2950'
I arrive at the parking lot at 7:45 am. This hike is one of the most
popular in the gorge during the summer. It is also used as a
conditioner for scrabblers, climbers, and the Mazama’s. There are a
ton of people on the trail in the summer. I have always wanted to get
up there in the winter. I am glad I did. It will be my favorite time to
climb this one from now on.
It starts out at 150' and d switchbacks up. Then there is a fork in
the trail about a mile in. Go to the right and it is less difficult but
longer with views. Take the left fork and it is more difficult(not
hard at all) with no views. The sun was coming out and playing with
the windswept clouds so I picked the easy way. I am glad I did cause
the clouds where so cool to watch. The winds in the gorge were sweeping
and pushing the could so fast that I would look and then look again and
they would be so different. Some of the fastest moving clouds I have
seen. I t was really cool to watch.
DSCN2297
Snow patches started around 950' and solid snow at 1500'.
The trail was packed down and icy. I did not bring my snowshoes for
that reason I knew it would be packed down so I just brought my
crampons. I didn’t need to put them on though cause the snow on the
sides was soft enough for a bite but frozen enough to stay on top till
I reached around 2000'. At this point I had to watch my step or I would
posthole a couple of feet in the softer stuff that was not as packed
down
I arrived at the old lookout spot and the wind was crazy. I found
shelter to take a couple of shots of Dog and cool down. The temp at
this point was 22 degrees. I had been trying to keep my body heat and
sweating down so when I get to the top in that wind I would not get
cold. I continued on and met up with the guy who showed up right after
I left the trail head. He took the more difficult trail. He went ahead
of me. We reached the open traverse and I stopped to bundled up. The
wind was biting stinging every inch of exposed skin.
DSCN2328
I was like, this isn’t that bad at least I can still hike in it. The
wind was blowing around 45+ mph at this point. As I reached the spot
on the trail that one would turn up the ridge the wind knocked me down
to the ground. I stood again and was able to stagger a bit and then
was knocked down again. I stayed down on my hands and knees for a
little bit hoping it would slow a bit. Not a chance the wind had to
have been blowing at 45-50 with gusts of 60+. It was nuts!
this is where the wind blew me
down
I could not stay on the trail and kept getting blown off. I pretty
much crawled to a sheltered spot behind a tree at 2800'. Whew! I was
laughing so hard I had tears that where freezing to my face. It was
funny.
There was no way I was even going to bother with the last .2-.3
miles to the summit. The spot I was at was just fine for me today
. Plus I have been on the top of this many times. I sat and watched
the clouds blow around me and the summit. The guy that I met down lower
also decided not to go the rest of the way. I am telling you all it was
crazy. His snow shoes that he had attached to the back of his pack
where ripped out and sent down the slope. I hung out and took pictures
of the awesome rhyme ice on my now favorite tree on Dog.
DSCN2371
The temp was 20 degrees. I would have hated to see the wind chill . My fingers would instantly freeze when out of there little mittens.
notice the snow and ice that has
been plastered to the back side of the trees by the wind. It was about
1.5 - 2' thick.
the gorge and wind
mountain
I headed back down after hanging out for about 45minutes. I crawled
down to the end of the ridge and was finally able to stand at this
point. I met a few people on the way down and it was the wind that was
the topic of conversation. I will go back when the forecast for the
winds is better. It was a great hike and I never used my crampons but I
did slip and fall a couple of times on the way down. Just cause I was
too lazy to put them on. I was back at the truck a little after 11 and
had time to go check out some of the falls that have been freezing up
in the gorge.
multinoma falls frozen
05
multinoma falls
12/05
My stats RT 6.5 and elev gain 2650'
Mazama ridge ski/fun
Dicey, Mark and I have been planning to get out together for a few
months now. Dicey came up with an idea to go to Mazama ridge at Rainier
for an overnight, snowshoe, ski, board trip. This was perfect cause I
don’t want to spend $ on resorts this year. I have not been on my board
for 3 years, so I was pretty excited for this trip. I asked Action
betty if she wanted to join us. I figured this would be a great place
for her first back country experience. AB invited another Nwhikers
member Aussie to join us. Lucky Mark he gets to hang with 4 cool gals
.
So plans have been set for a month, till two weeks before the date I
somehow tweaked my neck again (old injury [slipped disc] from 10 years
ago). After getting an MRI last week, the doc told me I have a
herniated disc and a bunch of bone spurs causing pressure on a nerve
and might need surgery
. He told me that going boarding was not a good idea. If I where to
fall just right I could do some serious damage. BUT he didn’t tell me
I couldn’t snowshoe or build a cave . There was no way I was staying home!
We all met at the parking lot of Longmire and picked up the permit for
camping. The road all the way from the entrance to the park was packed
snow and ice. The parking lot at paradise was as dry as could be. The
weather was grey flat overcast and the mountain was not out.
We started out heading down the one was road from paradise. The
trail was well packed down by skiers and snowshoers. Once you cross
the stream at the bottom of the valley you can hang a left and cut up
to the ridge from there. There was a well packed path here too.
I am kinda glad I didn’t have my board to huff up hehehe. Once we
reached the ridge top to AB’s relief, Aussie came down and took her
board up the rest of the way to camp. Dicey and mark found a great
place to camp. Great views of the Tatoosh range and a good slope for
digging a snow cave!
DSCN3273
After getting their tent set up dicey, Mark, and AB took off to get
some turns in. I stayed to dig out “The Cave”. Aussie stayed with me
to help dig. I told her she didn’t have to help me and she could take
off to do some snowshoeing. She still stuck around to help. She rocks!
She was so much help. Thank-you very much for your help!
I had been dreaming about this cave for a week now. I knew I was going
to be stuck at camp not being able to board so I had a plan. I wanted
it to be big enough for AB and I to sit up from our sleep position. I
also wanted plenty of room for Dicey and Mark to come in and sit with
us later in the evening when it got colder. We stared to dig and dig
and dig and dig and......well you get the point. The snow was great!
The first 2.5' - 3' was fresh fluff. Then a layer of 2+" ice, this
would be our ceiling. Then a 2-3' layer of compact snow. Then another
2" ice layer. One would dig out and toss it to the entrance then the
other would dig and toss it out of the entrance. Quite the project!
the digging
begins
A few hours later AB shows up and relieves Aussie. Aussie and I were
almost finished with the cave part. Aussie headed back to the TH.
Aussie, thanks again, I enjoyed your help and company. I hope we can
get together again.
An hour or so later we finished digging the dining area. When
exiting the cave you walk into the dining area with a large cooking
table a bench for three and a captains chair. It took 3.5 - 4 hours to
complete a great snow cave and hangout area.
DSCN3191
to the right is space enough for
two to sleep and sit up.
sitting in the throne admireing
the cave
Mark and Dicey arrived just in time to set up for dinner and cheeze. We
all hung out in the dining area and enjoyed the evening. Dicey took a
couple of runs in the dark on AB’s board.
feeding sharky the
cheeze
DSCN3216
Later we all went inside the cave for a warming up. I blocked the
entrance with large blocks of snow and ice. It got up to 45+ degrees in
the cave with the stove going. (A hole at the top of the door was used
for ventilation). We hung out for a while by the light of a green glow
stick. AB and I had a comfy night in the cave It was 35 degrees in
there when I woke up.
breakfast in the dining
room
the
banch
The morning was quite nice. The sun was trying hard to work its way
through the clouds and the mountain was out. Things were still grey
and flat though. After breakfast dicey Mark and AB headed down the
ridge a bit and I headed up the ridge for some snowshoeing. It was
sooo pretty up there I wished the lighting was better. I reached the
high point of the ridge 6300' and waited for dicey and Mark to meet me
at the top.
happy
camper
We all met back at the camp and started to pack up. The demolition of the cave was quite fun and some work (well built
) . Mark and Dicey jumped on the roof to get it to collapse. I didn’t
get any shots of this I hope AB will post some. It was quite funny to
watch them disappear into a hole in the snow .
Fun times for me
. I couldn’t snowboard but I was happy to get some good exercise
digging and snowshoeing. Being in such a beautiful spot as Paradise
area in the winter. I completely enjoyed the company of 4 great
people. I couldn’t ask for anything more. Thanks all!
summit of Unicorn to the
right
Unicorn Peak
This trip had a first for each of us. MY first class 4-5 rock climb on
a peak. It was Spotly’s first lead on summit rock on a peak, Ab’s
first real glissade and first time using her crampons.
After ideas/plans to climb Unicorn peak with another climber fell
through on Thursday morning. I had resigned to the fact that till I
find someone who leads rock I would not be climbing Unicorn. I have
only climbed top rope at crags, never on a peak that needed a lead. So
my plans altered. Then I get a PM from Spotly looking for beta on
Climbing Unicorn and that he was thinking of going solo. Well now if
that didn’t just fall into my lap! After some planning Unicorn was on!
reflection
lakes
AB and I planned on doing some climbing around in the Tatoosh range on
Sat. I figured it would be a great place for her to strengthen her
climbing skills. One thing stopped us from that plan. AB locked her
keys in her rig with all of her gear at Longmire
. After dealing with her keys in the truck we got a late noon time
start up the snow lake trail. We set up camp and had a relaxing time in
the shade for a bit. We climbed up the steep chute and had dinner up
higher with great views. AB finally got to use her crampons.
AB topping out on the
chute
lots of snow
left
She did really well up and down the chute and decided she was going to climb up with us as far as she could on Sunday.
We woke up Sunday morning and started up the gully to meet up with
Spotly. An inversion through the night and kept the snow pretty soft
but not soft enough to not use crampons. The chute is about 30 degrees
right now and in fine shape. We met up with Spotly at the top of the
chute. Headed up towards the saddle.
last steep climb before the
saddle.
front and center for most of the
trip
The pitch on the final climb to the saddle became very steep. AB had a
moment of “I am freaked” but worked through it and plowed her way up.
Once reaching the saddle there is a great view looking towards Adams.
AB stopped here because the next step was to gain the ridge.
AB down in the saddle. Taken
from the top of the snow finger
To gain the ridge one must climb and traverse class3-4 rock. The
exposure was high. A big DEEP moat directly below me didn’t make it
feel any more comfortable. Spotly took the lead heading strait up the
class four section. Then I started to follow his route and saw a nice
class three spot. It was a little sketch but fun all at the same time.
From the ridge we climbed a snow field on the east side. Then we
climbed over the ridge and climbed another snowfield on the west side.
This snow field had some exposure but not too steep. We dropped down
onto the east side of the ridge again onto an exposed snow traverse.
Spotly’s favorite part of the trip...NOT! This took us strait to the
summit block.
this is a shot of the last
sketchy snow traverse before the summit
block
Spotly on his favorite traverse.
Summit block in the background
There are several routes up the summit block we chose the easiest
route. It is a class3/4 section then traverse over to a class 5 crux
and then up some more class 4 to the top. After Spolty climbed up and
placed a couple of pieces of pro in it was my turn. I was a little
nervous for the first time as soon as he said climb on. It has been a
long time since I have been roped up on class 5 rock. I climbed up the
class four then scooted over to the class five section. Right in the
middle of the class five Spotly put in a bomb proof piece. I could not
get it out. I tried and tried but it was in there really good. We
decided to leave it and he would rap down and use his cleaning tool to
get it out. It was over so fast I wanted to do it again and again.
What a blast! I had forgotten how much I love to climb rock.
views intp the goats with Adams
in the back
After a few minutes on top we set up for the rappel. There was a group
of 8 or 10 that where a part of a class that had started there way up
the same route. Spotly asked the lead if he could grab his pro. I
rappelled down the 5.6 roof pitch and Spotly stayed up there for his
pro. The rappel was so fun! It took me a while to loosen up till a guy
down below reminded me to trust the rope and let it do the work.
Things you forget in time. Spotly meanwhile is still waiting for his
pro. I felt bad but felt better when the first guy tried but could
not get it either. The next guy had a tool and was able to get it out.
Then it was Spotly’s turn to rap down.
Rap down off the summit. Photo
taken by Spotly
Spotly rappelling off the
summit.
Yahoo we did it! I think we worked pretty well as a team of first
timers. Spotly you are a great lead! I was comfortable with climbing
with him and to me that is important. Then it was time to head back to
Denise waiting at the saddle. Once we got back to that nasty rock
traverse I found an anchor to rap from. I wanted to rap down it. Spotly
looked at the anchor and decided to add a backup and rap ring.
Rappelling down that was a blast!!! We rappelled down to the moat and
climb out of it using a big chuck of snow that was stuck down in it.
Then finish the rap down the snow finger to the saddle. So much better
than down climbing it!
rap down to the moat. Photo
taken by Spotly
different view of rap. Taken by
AB at the saddle
From the saddle we had to drop down that steep slope. AB was still a
bit freaked but took it slow and made it down. Then Spotly took off.
He had a long drive back to Spokane. We started down into the bowl.
Glissading is the best way to get all the way down. AB started her
glissade and I plunge stepped for a bit then glissaded myself.
Then it was time for the chute. I figured it would have softened up
a bit more since the morning so I decided we could do it without
crampons. I was wrong It was still a bit firm for just boot IMO. So
this is when I was stuck. It was too steep to be taking my pack off to
put on my crampons. I was freaked out about Glissading it. I have this
Huge fear of Glissading steep snow now since I had a very bad accident
on a sled hitting several trees and rock at 30+MPH and ended up in the
ER. I still have injuries from it. I don’t like steep snow and the
thought of sliding on it was freaking me out. AB is the one who talked
me into the glissade. I told her if she did it first then I would She did it! Now I had too...me and my mouth
. We both did a slow glissade through the chute and then gained speed
as the pitch let up a bit. This was a huge step for me because I have
been scared of Glissading since the accident and avoid it like the
plague. I need to do it again and again to get over this stupid fear.
Thanks AB for the encouragement. We went back to camp, packed up and
headed back to the cars.
Ab glissade!!!
I had tried this peak before about 5 years ago with Mania and it was in
August. We got turned around at the saddle due to a huge moat and poor
access (scary loose class 4 rock) to the ridge. This time of year is
the best for this climb! All of the nasty scree and talus is covered
in snow. We were on snow 95% of the time. The Glissade is great from
the saddle at the top all the way down to Snow lake. The summit block
is quite solid and has some great routes on it.
What a great climb and weekend it was for me. Thanks again Spotly
for your great lead, company and images for the tr. AB you did great!
Each time, you go father and get better! I now have been reminded how
much I LOVE to rock climb. I had forgotten just how much I love it.
WHAT A GREAT CLIMB!!!!
Patchy snow starts quickly after the trail head and is solid and continuous right around 4500' and up
. At that point we where so close to First Mother and didn't want to
drop back down so we decided to head up First mother 6395'. Nice peak.
We sat up there for an hour or so. The mountain was out more than in.
the storm was rolling in and gave some relief from the sun. We decided
we could add Fay to the Hessong Rock and Pleasant loop for Sat so we
decided to Take the ridge running NW to Castle. We pick our own
bushwack route across the ridge. We would pick up the path and goat
trials every once in a while. We took a wrong turn around this unnamed
peak and ended up summiting it and getting cliffed out. We climbed back
down and found the way around it and summited Castle peak 6110'. After
a quick break we headed down. The weather system was settling in for
the night.
. We hung out in the condo and enjoyed each others company and drove
down to Wilkenson for lunch. By the time we got back from lunch the
weather was lifting. Packed up camp and the backpacks and headed up to
Spray Park. What a great fun day.
. Plus I have been on the top of this many times. I sat and watched
the clouds blow around me and the summit. The guy that I met down lower
also decided not to go the rest of the way. I am telling you all it was
crazy. His snow shoes that he had attached to the back of his pack
where ripped out and sent down the slope. I hung out and took pictures
of the awesome rhyme ice on my now favorite tree on Dog.
. My fingers would instantly freeze when out of there little mittens.
. He told me that going boarding was not a good idea. If I where to
fall just right I could do some serious damage. BUT he didn’t tell me
I couldn’t snowshoe or build a cave 
. There was no way I was staying home!
) . Mark and Dicey jumped on the roof to get it to collapse. I didn’t
get any shots of this I hope AB will post some. It was quite funny to
watch them disappear into a hole in the snow 
. After dealing with her keys in the truck we got a late noon time
start up the snow lake trail. We set up camp and had a relaxing time in
the shade for a bit. We climbed up the steep chute and had dinner up
higher with great views. AB finally got to use her crampons.
